Pattern making refers to modifying a flat piece of fabric to create a garment that suits the proportions of a human body. It is the building block of fashion design. For a career in Fashion designing, Pattern Drafting is a necessary skill to know. Pattern makers, costume designers, Ready to Wear fashion designers, sewing business owners, home sewists – they all need this knowledge, in varying degrees of expertise.
There are many methods of pattern making.
One of the few fashion design software that are as good in the trail version. This one offers easy tools for creating tee-shirt designs, dress patterns etc. Basic circle, rectangle and circle tools are powerful enough to satiate designer’s needs. Added ne tee-shirt models for templates. Wild Ginger Software Fashion Design and Sewing Pattern Software Celebrating 25 Years! Fashion designers, costumers, manufacturers, and pattern makers. We publish the most comprehensive and cost-effective range of pattern making software on the market. The Best Support. AIMS 360 is the #1 apparel software in the industry! Currently powering over 600+ manufacturers, wholesalers and importers of apparel, footwear, accessories and other fashion-related goods. This affordable business software gives you total control!
Js App proposes you to be a professional fashion designer or professional pattern maker!!! You need to choose between style or pattern. Style: - choose your model: face, hair, body color, etc. select your clothes: skirt, pant, dress, t-shirt, overall, corset, swimsuit, blazer.
The most sophisticated and easy way is to let a computer make all the patterns. Garment manufacturers depend on these computer software programs for creating patterns with the help of talented fashion design professionals. It is super fast and without too many errors. But it is costly, so the next best recourse is manual pattern drafting.
Manual pattern making is done by following 2 primary methods.
Flat pattern drafting Method (with block patterns) & the Draping method.
Flat pattern drafting
This is a method of making a drawing of the garment on a pattern paper, based on body measurements, following the design on a fashion sketch. It is supposed to be the most accurate manual pattern drafting method.
The basic, foundation patterns are called slopers. The sloper has the bare minimum ease. It basically fits the figure to a T.
The basic slopers are then modified to make different types of other complicated, feature rich flat patterns. The slopers are modified and manipulated by adding ease, and other design elements like fullness, tucks, change in design lines etc.
Fashion sketches are flat, Patterns are flat. Clothes are definitely not. It is the design elements like darts that give depth and dimension to flat patterns. Slashing and spreading of the sloper pattern adds more fullness to the pattern, Darts are added to give a 3D effect, fabric manipulations are done to add texture to the fabric.
Draping Method
This is a method of draping the fabric on a dress form and then make the pattern from there. The fabric for the garment (or a muslin fabric) is pinned directly on to the mannequin and adjustments are made, tucks, darts and curves are pinned and the markings made with chalk.
This method enables the designer to clearly see how a particular fabric drapes and how it will look as a final garment. If you want to visualize your design in a 3 dimensional way and then make the pattern, this is the method for you.
The draping is almost always converted to a flat pattern, before making into the final garment.
It involves a lot of steps and can lead to error if you are not experienced. Some fabric looks way better on a dress form than on a human body, with all the movement involved and other details. Draping is not a good choice for sewing with close fitting styles or when designing with stretchy fabrics.
But for a creative person, this can involve a great deal of innovation and satisfaction.
19th century French fashion designer, Madeleine Vionnet, was a pioneer in creating garments by draping.
After the Pattern is made, the finished pattern and the toile made out of it will have to be tested on the dress form with the exact measurements for fit.
You have to analyse if the bodice length on the back and front are adequate, the shoulder slope is accurate, the armscye is perfect, there is balance on both sides of the pattern, whether the ease is adequate for comfort as well as movement, whether the pattern instructions are enough for even novices to sew it etc. Only then will your garment turn out to be the best.
Pattern making Vocabulary
Sloper : Master pattern made based on the correct measurement of the body. This is the basis on which other patterns are developed (foundation pattern/master pattern). Once you have made this you will be able to design garments in any style to fit the person. Slopers can be made of Bodice, skirt, sleeves, pant and collar.
Fitting Shell : Another name for sloper; a Closely fitting pattern without any design features and bare minimum ease.
Block : Basic starting pattern for a particular garment. This pattern will have design elements.
Production Pattern : The final error free pattern developed after all corrections are done. It is ready for production.
Bodice : Part of the garment from shoulder till the waist.
Bust line : Line around the fullest part of the bust.
Waistline : Line connecting bodice to the skirt on a dress; Line around the narrowest part of the torso.
Hip line : Line around the fullest part under the waistline.
Toiles/Mock ups : The sample garment made from the pattern. Pattern created using the methods described above are then tested using toiles and mockups.
Dress form/Body form : Body shaped forms in fixed proportions.
Ease : Extra measurement added to the garment for ease of movement and comfort.
Digital Pattern Making Software
Trueing : Adding seam lines after the sloper is fitted on the dress form.
Pattern Drafting software : Computer programs for pattern making in garment manufacturing. These allow you to simply input your measurements and the drafting of the pattern is done by the software. You can even convert the pattern into a 3 D model with the help of these software. CAD programs like Inkscape are widely used.
Pattern drafting tools : Large Pattern making paper, a narrow one meter long measuring tape, pencils, Erasers, Large clear grid scale, dress form, Curved scales (Leg curve, hip curve), scissors for paper.
Standard Measurements : These refers to body measurements that are used in commercial patterns. These are not individualized and cannot be for commercial patterns. So garments made with these patterns can fit less optimally than ones made with personalized body measurements. Standard pattern figure types like Misses, Miss Petite, Junior, Women’s Women’s petite Men’s and kids are used by commercial pattern companies who sell patterns for home use.
Muslin Rub : Term that refers to rubbing tailor’s chalk on the muslin fabric used in draping, to indicate seam lines and darts.
Marks on a Pattern.
Seam line : A sewing machine foot is the symbol for sewing line on patterns.
Seam Allowance : The extra fabric further from the seam lines.
Seam Numbers : Numbers on patterns showing which seams are to be sewn to one another.
Cross marks : The marks along seams etc used to indicate where sections meet.
Grain line : This is direction of the grain of the fabric. It should be marked along the length of the pattern pieces as a line.More on grainline here
Pattern details : The pattern will be accompanied by a pattern guide sheet with all the details needed for interpreting the patterns and result in the final garment. Pattern Parts and sizes and number of pieces are always marked on the pattern.
Notches : Pattern indicators on patterns for matching seams. There can be single notches and double notches. They can be added to denote seam allowance, dart legs. Double notches are given on back pattern to distinguish it from the front pattern.
Circles : Pattern indicators for dart points, tucks, buttonholes.
Fitting symbols : These marks are placed on long seams so that accuracy is maintained when sewing the seam.
Cutting lines: Symbol of scissors to show where fabric should be cut.
Pleat symbols: Arrows showing pleat positions.
Fold line : Broken lines showing where fabric should be kept on fold.
Pattern Marking short forms
CF – Center Front
CB -Center Back
BP – Bust Point
SS– Side seam
SW – Side Waist
SH– Shoulder
HBL – Horizontal Balance Line
SH- Tip – Shoulder tip
Reference : Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing.
Related posts : Best sewing pattern sites ; Free sewing patterns.
Pattern making software suppliers for the clothing and fashion accessories industry. This software directory will assist you with Pattern Design, Markers, Grading, Nesting software etc. Learn about the creation of patterns and marker making activities by viewing the following web sites. They can assist you with most pattern, grading or marker related issues.
Grading & Marker Making
AMS Inc.: Makers of CUTPLAN cut order planning software for apparel manufacturers. CUTPLAN optimizes marker selection, marker sizes, and marker heights to arrive at the best possible spread plan for your manufacturing costs. Currently saves 2-8% of annual fabric costs for over 60 global manufacturing leaders. 100% customized installations. Address:21081 Bella Vista Cir Boca Raton, FL 33428 Toll Free 800-737-9757 Fax: 508-892-0972 Email: info@cutplan.comContact: Keith Richardson, VP Sales
assyst-bullmer Inc.:Software solutions for the sewn goods industry, including, design, grading, marker laying cut planning and product data engineering.assyst/bullmer develops & deploys CAD/cAM/pDM software, systems, machinery ,solutions and services for the industries processing textiles, a.k.a. Soft Goods Industries (apparel, upholstery, transportation interior, luggage, technical textiles and other textile products such as inflatables, aerospace- , medical- , outdoor-, stuffed toys & dolls industries). Address 5000 Aerial Ctr. Pkwy Phone 919 467 2211 Fax E-mail info@assyst-intl.comContact name Jim Hurley
- CAD / CAM
- PDM software
- Pattern Making Software
- Textile Machinery Spreaders, Cutting Equipment, Material Handling
- Manual Round Knife
Autometrix: (USA) precision cutting systems for the sewn products industry. Autometrix is a leading producer of pattern making software and automated low-ply cutters. We can help your company move from paper patterns and hand cutting, to computer aided design and automated cutting painlessly!
Gerber Technology: Gerber Technology provides an extensive line of integrated computer hardware and software systems to the sewn-goods and flexible goods industries. These systems significantly improve the efficiency of information management, product and pattern design, grading and marker making/nesting, material spreading and cutting processes. The company offers automation solutions to a variety of industries including apparel, transportation, furniture, composites and industrial fabrics. Gerber Technology's world headquarters is located in Tolland, Connecticut, U.S.A. with regional offices, agents and distributors located in more than 110 countries worldwide.Established in 1968, Gerber Technology is one of four divisions of Gerber Scientific, Inc. (www.gerberscientific.com) of South Windsor, Connecticut. Address: 24 Industrial Park Road West TollandConnecticut 06084USAPhone: 1 800 826-3243 or 1 860 872-8082 Fax: 1 860 871-6007Email: info@gerbertechnology.comContact: Raquel Wolfe
GRAFIS(Germany) is a software for pattern construction, grading and layplanning running on standard Personal Computers under Windows95 and above. It contains an extensive range of functions for pattern cutting and modification and is available at a very competitive price. Therefore, GRAFIS is in use in industry as well as in trade and education.
- Pattern Making Software
- CAD Software
Lectra: Lectra is a world leader in the design, manufacturing and distribution of software and hardware dedicated to the major industrial users of textiles, leather and other soft materials, supplying a comprehensive range of associated services for the development of complete solutions, from product design to manufacture to retailing. Lectra, a leading technology provider to the fashion industry offers a wide range of software, automated cutting systems and high value-added services covering the entire value chain, from design through manufacturing to retailing. Lectra Fashion PLM (Product Lifecycle Management), specifically designed for fashion companies, integrates process optimization with collections lifecycle management and includes modules for line planning, creative collection development, product data management, product engineering, and workflow management. Lectra Kaledo Collection, which shares a common database platform within PLM, encourages artistic creativity while structuring the collection creation process and facilitating the exchange of information internal and external to the design environment. Lectra Kaledo Textile is a suite of software for the textile designing processes of Print, Knit and Weave that further facilitates the exchange of information internal and external to the design environment. Lectra serves over 20,000 customers in more than 100 countries.
- Pattern Making Software
- PLM Software (Fashion PLM)
- Textile Design Software
- Fashion Technology
Nhega is a New York-based technology company whose mission is to develop, produce and market superior productivity enhancing systems for the apparel industry. Nhega's development team consists of leading experts in Artificial Intelligence (AI) technology. The company has created the NScan, the world's first automated, high-speed, pattern-piece digitizing system. Contact: Matt Wyndowe Phone: 212-222-7803 Fax: 646-365-3177 E-mail: mw@nhega.com
OptiTex USA Inc. (formerly known as Scanvec Garment Systems): specializes in the development of innovative, easy-to-operate, CAD/cAM solutions for sewn products and other related industries. Their Microsoft Windows' based software packages for digitizing, pattern engineering, grading, marking, and advanced automatic nesting are specifically designed to meet the needs of today's manufacturers of industrial fabrics, apparel, upholstery, transportation, composites, home furnishings, and other sewn products. Address: 325 West 38th St, Suite 1107, NY, NY 10018 Phone: 1-212-629-9053 Fax: 1-212-629-9055 Contact: Sales Dept. Email: optitex.usa@optitex.com
Pad System:PAD System's mission is to offer high technological level CAD/cAM solutions that are efficient, simple and flexible to all individuals and companies involved in the apparel, textiles and leather industry as well as in 3D computer graphics. PAD System evolves with its customer. They believe that, through a personalized approach and by offering continuous first class support and training, PAD System and its clients will grow together with success.
- CAD Software
- Pattern Making Software
Pattern Works is a garment design and pattern drafting service available to small manufacturers, pattern companies and designers. Pattern Works creates, sells and supports computer-aided design software, PWstudio, for both the educational and business communities. Pattern Works publishes educational support materials relating to CAD and the apparel field, and conducts workshops in CAD software.
- Pattern Making Software
- CAD Software - fashion industry CAD
Plataine (formerly called Nester Software): develops one of the world's most advanced marker-making nesting solutions, saving materials, labor and time - automatically. Their flagship software package, NESTER, is an advanced, highly sophisticated, and cost-effective nesting solution that serves the following industries: Automotive, Clothing, Furniture (fabric, wood and foam), Metal Piece Nesting, Luggage and Accessories NESTER is fully integrated into the following companies' systems; Gerber Technology, Vetigraph, Asahi, AutoMetrix, B&W Cutters, and Toray. Founded in 1997, the company started out as a provider of software solutions for nesting and other geometry optimization. In recent years, the company has expanded its solution footprint to provide Total Production Optimization (TPO) solutions to a variety of industries, including manufacturers of metal, wood, and textile products. Current customers include industry leaders such as Bassett Furniture, Boeing, Century Furniture, Drexel Heritage, Ethan Allen, Ford, General Motors, The Gap, Hagger, Nike, and Wrangler. Hundreds of manufacturers around the world rely on Plataine's solutions to reduce production cycle times, ensure on-time product delivery, improve material utilization, and reduce inventories. 'While optimized nesting remains an important component of our solution suite, the name change reflects our expanding line of software solutions,' says Pfeffer. 'Beyond improving the efficiency of individual tasks, manufactures need a greater level of visibility into the entire production process, from order to assembly.
Polygon Software(USA): Polygon Software provides end-to-end technology solutions for apparel, footwear and accessories businesses. Their solutions, known for their rapid low-cost implementation and robust function, are backed by an outstanding sales and support staff that's committed to your success.
| Polygon Software has two applications: | |
PolyNest is recognized as the easiest to use full-featured CAD on the market. They help manufacturer's of all sizes achieve dramatic productivity gains with fully integrated pattern design and marker making. PolyNest features free entry-level automatic marker making, outstanding pattern design, and support for a wide range of plotters, cutters and digitizers. Additional capabilities include a complete made-to-measure solution and a facility to position artwork on patterns. | PolyPM is an integrated Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) and Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) solution that helps business increase sales, reduce costs, make better business decisions and improve customer service, by maximizing inventory, balancing supply with demand, managing product definition and tracking inventory from raw materials to distribution. PolyPM Features: Costing and Tech Packs Budget styles and samples management, Inventory, sales orders, production, purchasing, receiving, shipping, invoicing. Discreet, outsourced, made-to-measure, serialized production models. Cut Planning, Production Planning, CRM functions, Best-of-breed Collaboration, Time & Action Calendars, Sourcing, EDI UPS, Fedex and Scan and Pack. |
Customer surveys in Apparel Magazine and Gartners have consistently rated Polygon Software as a leader in customer support. Address: 6 Reservoir Circle, Baltimore Maryland 21208 US Phone: 410.653.8004 Fax: 410.653.8022 Email: mailto:sales@polypm.com Contact: Mickey Wohlmuth, VP Sales
- Fashion Software
- Pattern Making Software
- CAD Software
- PDM Software
- PLM Software
- ERP Software
- Costing Software
- Barcode Software
- Inventory Control Software
- Warehouse Software
- Supply Chain Management Software
Richpeace Group Co., Limited: Richpeace takes the responsibility of developing high-tech industry, and concentrates on reforming and advancing the traditional industry by high and new technology and advanced and applicable techniques under the operation idea of 'lead by science and technology, then industry advances; make every effort, then gain the prosperous and the first class; honestly operate, then true love returns'. Richpeace Group became such a high-tech enterprise with 12 companies directly under and stock-controlling, and over 1000 employees. The directly under and stock-controlling companies has been nation-famous in textile and garment industry. Richpeace has 24 patents in textile, garments, and embroidery industry, hundreds of software copyrights, 6 corporation's standards, and over 20 honors. And Richpeace has over 20 selling nets, 13 professional network stations. Main products exported to over 50 countries and regions such as North America, Europe, Southeast Asia, and Africa, with more than 20 international agents.
- Pattern Making Software
- Embroidery Software
- CAD Software
- CAM Software
Tukatech: CAD/cAM/cIM systems for the Sewn Goods Industry. Their product line of automated systems include, TUKAstudio for fabric and Garment Design; TUKAcad for Pattern Design, Grading and Marking, TUKAjet family of High Speed Ink Jet Plotters; TUKAcut family of Single Ply Cutters; European Technology for Automatic Spreading and Cutting and TUKA-INA Systems for Unit Production Systems and Electronic Tracking in Sewing, Warehousing, Distribution and Manufacturing. They assemble, install, train and support these Systems. With Head Quarters in Los Angeles, they have offices in San Francisco, New Delhi, Seoul, Milano, Toronto, Bangalore, Jaipur and Dominican Republic with demonstration and training facilities. Address: 5527 E. Slauson Ave. Los Angeles, California USA 90040 Phone: 323-726-3836 Fax: 323-726-3866Email: tukateam@tukatech.com Contact: Rupi Arora, Chief Operating Officer
Fashion Pattern Making Software
- CAD Software / CAM Software
- Pattern Making Software
- Apparel Software
- RFID
- PLM Software
- Mannequins / Form
U & I Brand Consulting: They are a team of fashion/graphic & technical designers; they work with emerging and existing designers to cultivate a brand worth creating, talking about and sharing with the rest of the world. They also provide the following services: sample making, pattern making, tech packs, grading , sourcing and consulting services. Address: 453 S. Spring St. Suite #728 Los Angeles, CA 90013 213-761-4815 info@uandibrandconsulting.com Contact: Sheila Martinez
- Graphic Designers
- Technical Designers
- Pattern Making
- Sample Making
If you know of any additional Pattern Making Software companies specializing in the clothing or textile or fashion industry, let us know.
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